By now the lamb shank was coming out and we moved on to the Amarone—the ulimate expression of the passito process, the big hairy red of the Veneto, made from 100% dried grapes.  The drying process reduces liquids, thereby concentrating the dry matter and the flavor.  The 2005 was very fine, a clear step up in intensity, although it was ultimately blown away by the 2003 Fumanelli Amarone della Valpolicella Superiore, a great Amarone which was still young and primary, but just starting to show the chocolate-covered raisin, leather, tobacco and spice notes that we expect in great Amarone.    Killer juice, very powerful, very ripe (and very alcoholic at about 16 and a half percent, though it didn’t taste hot) more than holding its own with the lamb shank, and really shining during the cheese course.  I’d say the style here was halfway between old school and modern, like a great midline between Dal Forno and Quintarelli.